Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service Limited Edition II Watch

Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service Limited Edition II Watch


Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service Limited Edition II Watch Watch Releases


Back in 2013, Oris first collaborated with Australia’s Royal Flying Doctors Service, with the product of their initial partnership being the Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service Limited Edition watch based on the 44mm dual-crown Big Pilot series. Now, the watchmaker and the non-profit aeromedical service providing airborne medical care for Australia’s vast remote regions release the new Oris Royal Flying Doctor’s Service Limited Edition II, an updated and refreshed model. It’s a rugged 45mm automatic pilot’s watch based on Oris’ successful Big Crown series with a printed pulsations track for ascertaining a patient’s heart rate and nods to the organization throughout.


Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service Limited Edition II Watch Watch Releases


Based on the Oris Big Crown series, the new Oris Royal Flying Doctor’s Service Limited Edition II, at 45mm, has a slightly larger three-piece stainless steel case, one crown at three o’clock (the previous version had two crowns), and an updated pulsations track on the bidirectional rotating internal bezel designed for improved ease and speed of use. The new pulsations scale is measured over twenty heartbeats as opposed to the previous edition’s thirty heartbeats, which allows for a quicker determination of a patient’s pulse.


Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service Limited Edition II Watch Watch Releases


This works by rotating the bezel so that the beginning of the pulsations scale is aligned with the seconds hand and then counting twenty of the patient’s heart beats. At the twentieth heart beat, the tip of the seconds hand will be pointing to the patient’s per-minute heart rate on the pulsations scale. The majority of doctor’s watches with a pulsation complication function by means of a chronograph seconds hand and a stationary pulsations track printed around the dial where we so often see a tachymeter scale. Notably, this new version has a water resistance of 50 meters, down from the 100M water resistance of the previous version.


Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service Limited Edition II Watch Watch Releases


The internal bezel features the organization’s logo at the pulsometer’s zero point, and the solid caseback has the logo engraved at its center, rather than the partial exhibition caseback of the previous model. The dial indices and sword hands are coated in Super-LumiNova and the rotating bezel ring can be used for tracking of a second time zone or for the pulsometer feature. Powered by the Oris cal. 735, based on the Sellita SW 220-1, the new Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service Limited Edition II watch’s movement operates at 28,800vph with a power reserve of 38 hours.


Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service Limited Edition II Watch Watch Releases



Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service Limited Edition II Watch Watch Releases


With the Royal Flying Doctor’s Service Limited Edition II, Oris has once again done what we know them to do well by blending utilitarian legibility and classic aviation design language in a limited-edition watch which honors their partner organization’s mission. The Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service Limited Edition II is available with either a brown leather strap, a bracelet, or a crocodile strap, and it comes in a wooden presentation box with the the RFDS logo on top. The Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service Limited Edition II will have a price of 1,900 CHF on leather or 2,100 CHF on a bracelet or crocodile strap. oris.ch

Record-Thin Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Watch Hands-On

While most big brands seem to be saving their R&D pennies for another year as they dedicate 2017 to celebrating, ahem, their “heritage” and paying homage to watches their predecessors had made anywhere between 1917 and 1976, we saw the quiet debut of a competitively priced, record-setting, ultra-thin, and yet decidedly bold watch with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic.

(732) 371-9778

(815) 307-9637

In all seriousness, we were scratching our heads as we tried to put together a list of truly modern watch releases from BaselWorld 2017 – meeting after meeting, what we hear is heritage this, 1948that… and while that trend and its effects we’ll discuss in a separate article, in a nutshell (and humor me a personal note here), it’s been getting so repetitive and unimaginative that, by day 3 at Baselworld, this vintage-fever has become both somewhat ridiculous and frustrating at the same time. Vintage and vintage-inspired is of course all nice and well, so long as something else from this century also gets to happen.

Record-Thin Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Record-Thin Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Sure, the Bulgari Octo is based on Genta’s Octo from a couple decades ago, but Bulgari did what a global powerhouse brand had to and has turned Genta’s exceedingly funky and decidedly inconsistent designs into a full collection of Octo watches that is more elegant, more modern and, ultimately, decidedly more masculine. Those marked as Finissimo are Bulgari’s most recent and proprietary additions to the Octo range, with Finissimo standing for the ultra-thin variants – of which multiple exist at this point.

Bulgari set a new course for the Octo back in the early 2000s and the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic, the very watch you see here, I think, has crowned that 15-year evolution so much so that it is not only the greatest Bulgari Octo to date, but also one of the best casual/dress watches altogether.

(240) 203-3253

9706779449

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic’s in-house-designed and -made BVL 138 micro-rotor automatic movement is a modern and case-filling 36mm wide and an extraordinary 2.23mm thin – throwing Piaget off its, frankly, long-lost throne by coming in a fraction thinner than their 12P micro-rotor movement that was 2.3mm thick.

Record-Thin Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Record-Thin Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic’s BVL 138 caliber has a power reserve of about 60 hours – impressive from such a small movement – and runs at 3Hz. Bulgari says they had to somewhat limit the size and capacity of the mainspring because there is a limit to how strong a spring the small, Pt950 platinum micro-rotor can replenish with energy. On show through a sapphire case-back, the movement looks as though it was printed on a sheet of paper and put into the case – I found myself rotating the watch to its front and back in disbelief that this movement really is in there, ticking away.

Record-Thin Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Thanks to this remarkable movement, the result is a 40mm wide Octo Finissimo case that is just 5.15mm thick and, as it is crafted from sandblasted titanium, is incredibly light at less than 50g with the leather strap included, and around 80 grams on the full titanium bracelet. The result is a watch that wears as though it wasn’t even there – so thin that it never gets caught on the sleeves or anywhere else and so light that I found it a matter of few minutes to forget about its presence on my wrist.

Record-Thin Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

4149333725

The visual treats of the Octo Finissimo Automatic are very tricky to capture in images, so I’ll try to describe it: the texture of the sandblasted titanium case appears to verge on matte and satin and, in fact, so does that of the leather strap. I don’t think I have seen such surface treatment on a leather strap before: even in very strong light (as in the image above) it looks matte, while in a dimly lit room it looks even more grey and matte, almost like rubber – making for a perfect fit for the high-tech vibe of the blasted titanium case.

Record-Thin Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The strongest criticism I had with the regular-thick Bulgari Octo Chronograph (reviewed here) was its much too bulky strap that took so much away from the Octo’s design. Here, however, the alligator strap matches the thin case beautifully both in its color, texture, and thickness, working incomparably better than it did with the chronograph.

334-310-1872

Record-Thin Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The sandblasted titanium bracelet and its buckle had to be specially designed as well: it’s the typical Bulgari Octo bracelet with the very wide and thin links that easily adapts to the curve of the wrist as the bracelet “turns” in small and fine increments around it. It’s comfortable and refreshingly different from the usual 3-5-link designs – but is definitely worth trying on to see how it aesthetically completes the case (for better or worse depends on personal taste, naturally).

Record-Thin Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The double-folding buckle was designed in a way that it folds into a hollowed-out part in the bracelet because without it the bracelet and buckle together would have been considerably thicker than the case itself. This, in turn, makes for a rare folding buckle design that is actually comfortable as it is almost perfectly flush with the bracelet itself, saving your wrist from having the protruding “butterfly” parts digging into it.

6096320776

Record-Thin Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

What makes the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic stand out from the rest of casual/dress watches is more than its thinness, though: with its combination of materials, lightness, comfort and proprietary movement (we asked, and Bulgari says they have no plans on supplying these to anyone), it is as refreshing in this sea of vintage-releases as its sand-colored dial among all the black ones… All this said, how it actually fairs in everyday life as a casual/dress watch with its unusual color combination and bracelet-like profile we’ll figure out when we get one in for review.

Price for the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic on that weird and weirdly great matte alligator strap is CHF 11,900 and it is CHF 12,900 on the full titanium bracelet. bulgari.com